Self Sealing Laminating

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June 19th, 2007 admin Leave a comment Go to comments

Self Sealing Laminating

A Brief Glossary Of Pouch Lamination Terms

If you've never used a pouch laminator before, you might be feeling kind of bewildered by all of the terminology associated with this document finishing method. Well, breathe easy because this brief glossary will fill you in on everything you need to know about carriers, mils, and the difference between hot and cold lamination. Continue reading so you can become well-versed in laminator terminology.

Carrier. A carrier prevents excess laminate from getting all over your machine. It's essentially a folded piece of paper you stick your document in before laminating it. A carrier has a slick interior so it won't get totally gummed up from excess laminate.

Cold lamination. Lamination done without heat. It's ideal for preserving heat-sensitive documents and photographs. Not all machines are capable of cold lamination, so if you need this feature, make sure to look for it.

Fellowes. An office machine manufacturer that makes great laminators, including the Voyager VY-125. The company makes products that are fantastic for both occasional and everyday use.

HeatSeal. The brand name associated with GBC laminators. HeatSeal products are some of the best machines you can buy for both home and office use.

Hot lamination. Lamination that's done with heat. The heat activates the glue in a standard laminating sheath so your document can be encased in plastic and thus preserved.

Matte pouches. These supplies have a matte exterior as opposed to a glossy one. Due to the surface's somewhat granular texture, it can be written on with a variety of writing instruments.

Mil. A mil refers to a thousandth of an inch, as well as how thick a pouch is. Common sizes are 3, 5, 7, and 10 mil. The higher the number, the better protected your document will be because it will be more rigid.

Mounting board. A board that can be run through your machine so as to join a document to a sturdy backing. These are typically used for art showings, point-of-purchase displays, and so on.

Pouch. The plastic sheath you place your document in for lamination. These supplies are available in a variety of sizes so you can laminate small items such as business cards and larger ones including menus and posters.

Pouch laminator. A machine that laminates items sheathed in plastic. Using one of these devices often entails using a carrier.

Reverse mode. A mode found on most high-quality laminators. It comes in handy if your document ends up getting jammed in the machine.

Self-sealing pouches. Supplies that don't need to be heated up in order to laminate your item. Typically used during cold lamination. They can also be used manually.

Sticky back pouches. These items have a sticky back so you can adhere your document to a surface.

Throat. The feed opening on a laminator. Throats typically range from about 4 to 13 inches wide.

UV/UL pouches. These supplies will protect your document from the elements, including the sun's rays. They're good to use if you're creating signs, banners, etc. that will be placed outdoors.

About the Author

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Redo my basement floor?

So I had a flood in my basement, and trashed the carpet that came with the house. I found broken tile (I suspect containing asbestos) and an uneven surface. I'd like to find some sort of goop I could pour over the floor (after removing lose tile and leaving that which is stuck) which will self-level, seal the floor, and give me a smooth surface I can put probably laminate flooring on. I have taken measures to prevent future flooding.

Suggestions please
Additional info -- Area to be covered is about 300 sq ft

There are several self leveling, pourable masonry products that are available, however I don't know of any that will work if you don't remove ALL the tile. There are also several trowel applied floor levelers that you can apply in the areas where you remove tile. At best, unless you have experience working with any of these products, you would probably be wasting your time and money. They are difficult to use for the inexperienced and the end result is usually disastrous. Your best alternative would be to remove all of the floor tile and remove the adhesive residue to the point that you have a relatively smooth surface. At that point, you can install you floating floor. Be sure to install the layer of underlayment that's recommended for you choice of floor. If you feel relatively certain that you floor tile contains asbestos, it can generally be safely removed using an ice scraper, but don't go crazy and disintegrate the tile allowing millions of particles to become airborne. For any tile that is adhered really well, a little heat from a paint remover or a good hot hair dryer will usually soften the tile and the glue . Worst case scenario, heat using a propane torch, being careful not to burn the tile.